Bespoke Indonesian Kebaya Ensemble in Raw Silk – Sutton, Surrey

Bespoke Indonesian kebaya Surrey
The Story
This bespoke Indonesian kebaya Sutton Surrey was created in gold raw silk, combining traditional design with couture-level tailoring.
A client brought me her original Indonesian kebaya set, which no longer fit, and asked if it could be recreated.
I rebuilt the entire ensemble from scratch — took all the patterns out preserving the traditional silhouette while refining the structure, fit, and balance through couture pattern cutting.

The Design & Construction
The ensemble was recreated in a gold raw silk, chosen for its ability to hold structure while still allowing a soft, elegant sheen.

The skirt was designed as a pencil silhouette with a front pleated vent (wiru) — constructed with 9 pleats precise folds ( traditionally 7 my client preferred 9)
This detail is both functional and cultural, allowing movement while maintaining a clean, elongated line. Each pleat had to be carefully measured, pressed, and secured to ensure consistency and flow when worn.
The matching kebaya-style top was also newly made, cut to contour the body with a sculpted fit.
The neckline was softly shaped, while the waist was refined to create a subtle flare — balancing tradition with a more structured, couture finish.
The Process

Recreating a piece like this requires more than replication. This bespoke Indonesian kebaya Sutton Surrey was carefully designed to balance traditional structure with modern couture tailoring.
It involves:
- Studying the original proportions and intent
- Translating traditional construction into modern pattern cutting
- Controlling structure through fabric choice and internal shaping
- Ensuring the final silhouette moves naturally while maintaining precision
The challenge lay in respecting the cultural integrity of the design while elevating the fit and finish to a couture standard.
The Result
A fully reconstructed kebaya ensemble — rooted in Indonesian heritage, but refined through precision tailoring.
The final piece holds its shape, moves with ease, and honours the original design while offering a sharper, more sculpted silhouette.

Traditional kebaya garments originate from Indonesia and hold deep cultural significance. Explore more
Location & Expertise
This piece was created in my Sutton, Surrey studio, where I specialise in complex garment reconstruction, bespoke dressmaking, and advanced alterations.
A couture-trained dressmaker specialising in complex bridal alterations, with a portfolio of bespoke garments demonstrating advanced construction and design.
You can explore more of my bespoke and bridal work in the Atelier Journal, including my
→ Alberta Ferretti inspired red dress
→ Beaded Lace Hem Reconstruction for a Martina Liana gown
Interested in a bespoke silk piece or a private Silk Atelier Session?
Alongside my bridal and couture work in Sutton, Surrey, I also offer private Silk Atelier Sessions — a more creative extension of my practice exploring design and painting on silk.
For bridal alterations or a bespoke design in SuttonSurrey, I would be delighted to hear from you.
Serving Cheam, Wimbledon, Wallington, Crystal Palace, Croydon & South London
Private bridal fittings by appointment
